Practicing rein back with smaller steps that bend and fold the hind quarters of my naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse.
A quality rein back has many benefits for the naturally gaited horse.
Rein Back for the Gaited Horse
By Jennifer Klitzke
Back in the days when I rode dressage with non-gaited horses, the rein back was commonly not introduced until the Second level tests. Since many riders never reach Second level, they miss out on learning the benefits of the rein back.
I took my naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse to a gaited horse clinic. The clinician introduced the rein back to horses and riders of all ages and training levels. After all, the rein back is a required movement in TWH rail class shows. Yet a quality rein back has great benefits for the gaited horse.
A quality rein back
In a quality rein back, I like to train my naturally gaited horse to engage from behind, bending the hindquarters, engaging the abdominal muscles, and lifting the back, chest, and wither. The horse needs to soften in the bridle without dropping behind the bit. Then step back with the hind legs leading versus the forelegs pushing back.
Also, important to note: In a quality rein back, the horse needs to walk back, not pace backward. The rein back is a diagonal foot fall sequence, not a lateral footfall sequence.
Benefits of a quality rein back
It rounds the back and engages the hind quarters
It diagonalized the steps which is helpful for gaited horses that tend to pace
It is a great transition exercise for horses that tend to get heavy on the forehand and lean on the bit
It is a great preparation to a canter depart and piaffe
Introducing the rein back to the horse in hand from the ground is a great way to help the horse understand the concept before teaching the horse from the saddle.
Cues for the rein back from the saddle
At a halt, soften and round the horse by massaging the reins and a snaffle bit.
Then draw your tailbone forward and tap on the horse’s sides in front of the girth with your lower leg and say “back.” It is the seat and leg aids that encourage the rein back. The purpose of the reins are to soften and prevent forward movement. The reins DO NOT pull the horse back.
As the horse offers a step back, immediately stop cuing and let the horse think about it. Scratch the horse on the neck lightly and reward the effort.
Repeat one step a few times and reward each time.
Then ask the horse for two steps with the same cues and alternate your leg cue with the second step.
After the horse is consistent with the concept of rein back from the saddle, I ask for more deliberate steps backward. Sometimes I tap my riding crop on the horse’s shoulder to encourage the backward movement. Soon, the deliberate steps can be accomplished without the encouragement of the riding crop.
Another application is to apply the lower leg behind the girth and tap the riding crop on the horse’s croup. If the horse moves forward, close your fingers on the reins without pulling back. After a few tries, the horse will grasp the concept and produce a more engaged rein back.
If you’re interested in showing Walking Horses at rail class shows, the rein back is a required movement in most classes. So, get good at it and while you do, you’ll discover just how much the rein back improves the roundness and engagement of the forward gaits.
I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.
If dressage improves the quality of natural gaits for non-gaited horses, can dressage improve quality smooth gaits for naturally gaited horses?
I was on a mission to find out.
Dressage and a Horse that Didn’t Trot
By Jennifer Klitzke
Twenty years of riding the sitting trot took a toll. I set out to find a smooth horse that would be easier on my aging body. In 2007, I fell in love with a three-year-old naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse filly named Makana.
When I began our training, I discovered that smooth didn’t come easy.
Yes, the smooth gaits are inherent within my naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse, but it was up to me to develop them. As a dressage rider of non-gaited horses that trot, how would I approach her training? Would dressage be as simple as replacing trot for the natural smooth gaits?
More than a simple gait replacement
I’ll never forget what it was like in the beginning of Makana’s training. When I cued Makana for the flat walk, she took a few steps of pace, stepping pace, flat walk, fox trot, and rack. Then I had to figure out which gait was the one I had asked for. Adding to the smooth gaits is the natural head and neck nod.
Dressage requires riding the horse with a snaffle bit and a light even, contact with both reins. While sitting a smooth horse is easier than sitting a bouncy trot, I discovered it was easier to teach a non-gaited horse acceptance of the bit. Why? The head and neck of a non-gaited horse remains stationary at the trot. My Tennessee Walking Horse has a natural head and neck nod at the flat walk, running walk, and fox trot.
How do I maintain rein contact while my horse’s head and neck nod with each step? How do I teach her acceptance of the bit?
I wrestled with these questions as we began our dressage journey. While I taught her bit acceptance, I needed to follow her natural head and neck motion. This means I needed to relax my shoulders, arms and hands to earn her trust with the contact.
Developing quality smooth gaits with dressage
I knew the principles of the dressage training pyramid would teach my naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse rhythm, relaxation, connection, engagement, straightness, and collection. Over time these qualities would develop her full range of motion—laterally and longitudinally. This would improve the quality of her natural smooth gaits.
Over time, Makana’s flat walk and running walk became relaxed and forward. Her head and neck nod was in timing of her hind leg steps. She developed rhythm and tempo with a more even stride length. Her steps were more engaged under her body. It was up to me to learn how to gently follow her natural head nod in a walk, flat walk, running walk, and canter.
I began to ride with greater awareness of cause and effect. By developing a greater feeling of right, I knew when I needed to make a correction. Then I listened for the regularity of foot falls and watched her head and neck motion where also helpful tools.
Learning Dressage for the Gaited Horse
I took regular dressage lessons for 20 years before moving to our farm. Now there wasn’t anyone in my area who taught dressage―especially for the gaited horse. I read books and watched videos. Then I attended clinics whenever gaited horse experts traveled to my area.
In 2010, I learned of a schooling dressage show not far away. Thinking it would be a good idea, I contacted the show manager and asked if I could ride my Tennessee Walking Horse at a flat walk instead of a trot. The show manager agreed. I entered to get feedback from a trained dressage professional about our training.
The judge provided helpful feedback about rhythm, relaxation, connection, engagement, balance, harmony, my riding position, use of rein, leg, seat and weight aids, and execution of the test requirements.
I never imaged I’d be return to showing dressage after 16 years riding a horse that didn’t trot!
Clearly dressage has improved the quality of Makana’s smooth gaits. Her medium walk, free walk, flat walk, running walk, collected walk, and canter are well established. We have worked through Introductory, Training, First level tests and are schooling Second level.
Dressage is a versatile language
Since we began this naturally gaited dressage journey, we have met many people who have introduced us to new experiences. I never imaged we’d be moving cows at team penning events and cow sorting leagues, riding the beauty of our State Parks by horseback, competing in endurance rides, orientation events, and trail challenges, riding in the snow, and giving stadium jumping a try.
In and out of the arena, dressage is our language through the versatility of experiences I enjoy with my naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse.
Video: How dressage improves smooth gaits
I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.
Work in hand? If you’re like me, I just like to get on and ride. Recently, I experienced the purpose work in hand has in building communication with my horse. This translates to our riding time, makes training easier, develops harmony, and helps the naturally gaited horse move in lightness and balance.
Why Work in Hand Makes Training Gaited Horses Easier
By Jennifer Klitzke
Before I set out to Seattle, WA to visit family for a week in 2016, I learned that Classical French Dressage Master Philippe Karl had been teaching School of Légèreté instructor certification clinics in three USA locations. One of these locations was not far from where I would be staying.
Ecstatic with the opportunity to get first-hand teaching in this Classical French Dressage method I have been studying, I contacted Nichole Walters, the Légèreté instructor in training to take lessons while I was in Seattle.
Nichole asked about my experience with Karl’s philosophy and the training with my horses. I explained that I had been studying Karl’s DVDs Classical versus Classique and Classical Dressage 1-4 and applying what I learned with my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horse, fox trotting horse, and Spanish Mustang.
My DVD collection of Classical French Dressage Master Philippe Karl.
Learning by DVDs are great for teaching concepts, but nothing beats one-on-one instruction for applying these concepts in real time. Lessons with Nichole were dot connectors!
When Nichole urged me to begin understanding balance and lightness with working in hand, I sighed. I just wanted to get on and ride. Philippe Karl’s DVDs cover work in hand, but I had glossed over that portion thinking it wasn’t important.
WRONG!
Nichole said Karl believes educating the horse’s mouth in hand is so important. He won’t teach his students how to ride until they know how to work the horse effectively in hand.
Benefits of working in hand
Balance: Teaches the horse lightness; how to carry its own head and neck and not lean on the bit; teaches the horse to lift its head and neck, open the throat latch; shift its balance from the forehand to carry more weight on the hindquarters; and helps the horse raise its whither by engaging the chest and shoulder muscles.
Educates the mouth: Teaches the horse how seek and follow a light, steady, even contact with a snaffle bit; relaxs the mouth and lower jaw, taste the snaffle bit and swallow; flex at the poll; and carry its own head and neck and not lean on the bit.
Flexing: Teaches the horse to follow an even, steady contact of the bit to a 45- to 90-degree bend to the right and left. This allows the horse to stretch the outside neck muscles while remaining balanced in the shoulders; then follow the snaffle bit to extend its neck down and out to stretch the top line muscles and spine. (Ideally the poll should be no lower than the height of the wither, so the horse remains in balance.)
After these work in hand exercises in place, I learned to direct the horse in hand at a walk. The horse’s body remains straight while the neck is in a 45- to 90-degree flexed position. This teaches the horse lightness, balance, forwardness, and straightness in the shoulders before the horse is directed into a small circle while remaining in balance.
After the horse walks straight while bending in the neck, then directed the horse into a neck extension on a small circle (volte). If the horse learns circles first, it often loads the inside shoulder. This in hand exercise helps the horse learn balance, lightness, and straightness as it follows an even, light, steady rein contact.
Three hours of work-in-hand lessons were GOLDEN! Work-in-hand taught me how to direct my horse to find body balance and acceptance of a light, following snaffle bit contact. This ground work made it easier to train my horse from the saddle.
Video: Why work in hand makes training the naturally gaited horse easier
Steps to work in hand
1) Face the horse and align my spine to the horse’s spine;
2) Raise the horse’s head and neck and open the throat latch (open the angle between the neck and the lower jaw) by applying equal contact on the corners of the horse’s mouth in direction of the horse’s ears. This helps the horse shift its balance from the shoulders onto the hindquarters. (Notice the horse square up its fore legs and raise its chest). This is a terrific for horses that lean on the bit.
3) Keep gently raising the horse’s head and neck until the horse begins to taste the bit and swallow. If the horse leans on the bit, QUICKLY press and release upward with both hands on the bit toward the ears. Wait for the horse to respond with lightness and remain in the upward position you desire. If the horse leans on the bit, repeat with a QUICK upward motion. The horse will learn that it has to carry its own head and neck.
4) If the horse stops tasting the bit, unlock the tension in the jaw. One hand remains neutral and holds the snaffle ring and the other hand directs the snaffle toward the bridge of the nose. As soon as the horse begins to taste the bit, bring both hands to the neutral position and maintain a light and steady contact;
Lift the head and neck high enough to be light into an open throat latch position (open the angle between the underside of the horse’s neck and jaw), encourage the horse to shift its balance from the shoulders and more onto the hindquarters. Noticed the forelegs are perpendicular to the ground and not leaning toward me and the chest and wither are raised.
5) Then, while holding one ring of the snaffle while the horse is in a balanced stance, collect the rein of the opposite snaffle ring so that there is EVEN contact with the snaffle ring and the opposite rein;
Then I move to the side while maintaining the contact and head and neck position. One hand remains on the ring of the snaffle and the other on the rein.
6) Gently lead the horse’s head and neck to one side with even contact. This stretches the outside neck muscles. (Notice the inside neck muscles concave and the outside muscles convex) ;
With even contact, I reposition myself from the side to the front of the horse while encouraging the horse follow the contact and turn its head and neck. This stretches the outside neck muscles. Be careful that the ears remain level and the horse continues to taste the bit.
7) Then direct the horse to follow the contact down and out to the side to stretch while keeping its ears level. This stretches the outside neck muscles and prevents the horse from contracting the neck muscles and hollowing the underside muscles. It also builds the top line muscles. Karl’s book Twisted Truths of Modern Dressage goes into detail why this is so important.
Extend the neck with even contact by guiding the horse with the hand down and out. Seek to maintain balance without the horse leaning onto the inside shoulder. It is most ideal if the horse’s poll is no lower than the height of the whither because it helps the horse maintain balance on all four legs, evenly in the shoulders, and the horse won’t collapse its pectoral muscles.
My lessons began with a horse that knew these exercises so that I could experience how it feels when it goes right. Then I worked with a horse that was just starting these exercises so that I could experience what it is like when things go wrong and how to correct it. This would help me at home when I began teaching my naturally gaited horses these in hand exercises.
Nichole guaranteed that if I spent ten to fifteen minutes in hand with each of my horses, it would produce balance, each horse would learn how to taste the bit, swallow, flex to each side, and follow an even, light, steady contact before riding. My horses will progress quicker in their training and become lighter on the bridle.
Applying work in hand at home
After the lessons with Nichole, I returned home and began to apply these exercises with my horses. Now I see why Karl feels so strongly about educating the horse’s mouth while in hand. I’m astounded with how soft, light, and balanced all of my naturally gaited horses are becoming when I begin riding sessions with these in hand exercises.
Lady: Grade fox trotting mare
Lift to LightnessFlexionNeck extension
Anytime my horse begins to get tense, anxious, or lose balance, I slow down the tempo or to a halt and reapply these flexibility and suppling exercises until relaxation and balance are restored. This has been a better option for me and my naturally gaited horses compared with riding through miles of tension.
The same cues used in hand can be applied from the saddle at a halt. Plus, the riding we do in a relaxed and balanced state develops the quality smooth gaits and muscle memory I desire. This dressage approach has led to a harmonious partnership with my naturally gaited horses.
Makana: Tennessee Walking Horse
Relaxing the mouthFlexionActionReactionFlexionNeck extensionShoulder inShoulder inFlat walk
Years later, work in hand and Legerete is how my unstarted three-year-old naturally gaited Tennessee Walking Horse / Spotted Saddle Horse, Marvel, has been trained and is coming along nicely. Plus, I cherish the fun and interactive partnership we have developed. Below are photos of us as a six-year-old.
In handSquare haltActionReactionFlexionJambetteFlat walkNeck extension
Anytime my naturally gaited Tennessee walking horses get worried, or my Foxtrotting mare, Lady gets tense in her body, I just ease down to a slow walk, halt or even dismount to work in-hand and restore relaxation. I don’t proceed until I’ve established mental and physical relaxation.
Getting started with work in hand
I had never given work-in-hand its proper respect until Nichole’s introduction. If you are a visual learner like me, I’d encourage you to purchase Philippe Karl’s Classical Dressage DVD Volume 1 which covers the work-in-hand exercises plus much more. Karl’s book Twisted Truths of Modern Dressage is also a great study aid with lots of pictures and detailed explanation.
For those who have studied decades of German dressage like I have and wonder what the differences are between German and French dressage, Karl’s DVD Classic versus Classique is an amazing contrast with riding lessons from Philippe Karl and FEI German Trainer Christoph Hess. Here’s my thoughts about it after watching this DVD: Can German and French Dressage Co-Exist?
I hope this is helpful. Let me know your thoughts by sending a message.
There’s nothing like trail riding on a naturally gaited horse. You can cover lots of ground and your body won’t pay for it later. But who ever said that dressage has to stay in the four walls of an arena? Why not take dressage to the trail and transform a ride to a dance?
Introducing the Gaited Trail Horse to Dressage
My friend’s naturally gaited horse fox trotting horse, Lady has been living at our place the last two summers. She doesn’t get out to ride much so she has encouraged me to ride Lady as much as I have time for.
Lady was purchased by my friend as an 8-year-old unregistered Walking horse. Registration didn’t matter to my friend since she just wanted a beautiful black trail horse. And Lady is all that—beautiful, black, and an exceptional trail horse.
When Lady first arrived she had two distinct gears, a dog walk and a hard trot. Over time Lady has developed a naturally smooth fox walk and fox trot. She’s more diagonal versus lateral on the gait spectrum.
Lady is used to being ridden bareback on the trail with a long, loose rein, so the concept of being ridden on a light contact and in balance have been new to her.
Here’s how balance and connection all started…
Resources for Naturally Gaited Horses to Improve Relaxation and Connection
A month ago, I began applying classical French dressage methods of training as taught by Philippe Karl from his DVD series Classical Dressage and Classical versus Classique, as well as principles taught from the late Jean Claude Racinet in his book: Another Horsemanship and his student Lisa Maxwell from her DVD: Getting Started in Lightness.
These instructors have taught me the importance of teaching the naturally gaited horses I ride to be soft in the mouth, jaw and poll to create relaxation in the mind which is critical before moving on to body exercises.
A relaxed mind is a teachable mind while a tense jaw and anxious mind bring about a resistant body that will not produce quality movement. Teaching the horse softness in the mouth, jaw and poll is best introduced in hand on the ground using a mild snaffle bit. These videos all provide excellent teaching in this and I highly recommend owning them for your personal library.
Relaxing the Naturally Gaited Horse for Trainability
Once the naturally gaited horse is soft and relaxed (in the mind and body); relaxed in the jaw and mouth, and licking, salivating, and chewing, then I proceed to teaching the horse exercises that bring the horse into balance. This is where the horse begins to engage the hind quarters by bending the joints, stepping under its body, engaging the abdominal muscles to lift the back, and lifting its whither to lighten the forehand for a few steps. This also can be introduced to the horse in hand which the videos encourage.
Separating the Stop and Go Aids
The French dressage philosophy differs from the German dressage philosophy I had been trained in for 12 years. While the German philosophy taught me to use my legs and seat to drive my horse into a rein contact, the French method separates the brake pedal (reins) from the gas pedal (seat and legs). Separating my seat and leg aids from my rein aids has been one habit that I have been working hard to break, and it is worth the results that I am seeing in the horses I ride. Lightness, harmony, and more willingness to go forward with less cueing on my part are among these benefits.
Timing of Aids
In addition to the separation of aids, is the crucial timing of my aids. My rein aids cue my horse’s front and my leg aids cue my horse’s hind legs. It is critically important for me to correctly discern the feeling of when my horse’s leg is in a cue-able position so that I get the desired result.
For example, if I am asking my horse to leg yield along the fence going to the right, my left calf needs to touch my horse at the girth as my horse begins to step its left hind foot forward. As I release my calf, I squeeze and release my outside (right) indirect rein to tell my horse to remain straight and not lead with the right shoulder. If my horse begins to get tense in the jaw, I squeeze the left rein with my middle, ring, and pinky fingers, and release by opening these three fingers as soon as the horse gives. At all times, I maintain a very light contact with the horse’s mouth on both reins with my thumb and index fingers.
Also, here’s an excellent blog post “The Wonder Whip” written by Manuel Trigo which was forwarded to me from a fellow gaited dressage friend. This blog post talks in detail about the timing of aids, and I find it very insightful.
Below is a video showing Lady being introduced to light contact as we leg yield along the fence. I am riding her in a Level 1 Mylar snaffle bit with white reins so that it is easier to see the amount of contact. The first leg yield is nothing short of a “hot mess,” and I explain what we worked through to “clean up” the second pass.
For Lady, establishing a soft contact and a relaxed mind before moving on to body exercises for balance have been the winning combination. Together they have brought out a beautiful transformation in Lady’s fox trot that is simply a joy to ride. The video below begins and ends just after the leg yield exercise which shows the most balanced, supple, and elegant fox trot Lady has achieved thus far.
Video: Introducing the Gaited Trail Horse to Dressage
Does your naturally gaited horse struggle with a pace canter or cross canter? Exercises over ground rails and small fences can improve canter quality.
Here’s my story…
Improve canter with a gaited horse
By Jennifer Klitzke
Experiencing dressage with my naturally gaited horses proves that relaxation of the mind and body produce smoother gaits, including canter. This means less lateral canter and four beat canter.
“Don’t practice a poor-quality canter.”
I learned an important lesson from my gaited dressage mentor, Jennie Jackson. She says, “Don’t practice a poor-quality canter.” This means as soon as my horse begins to feel flat, hollow, bumpy, braced, or out of balance in the canter, I need to stop cantering and start over from relaxation. That’s when I transition from canter to a walk or halt, reestablish balance and relaxation and ask for a quality canter depart to quality canter steps.
This also means I need to recognize the feeling of a quality canter and a poor-quality canter so that I can ask for more of the former and reduce steps of the latter. If I continue riding a poor-quality canter, that’s what I teach my horse.
If I want a quality canter, I must know firsthand what a quality canter feels like and practice more of it. That’s why taking lessons from a qualified instructor is so important to me. Instruction provides me timely feedback so that I can learn the feeling of quality and the feeling of poor quality. This helps me train my horses with greater progress and success when I am riding on my own.
Introducing canter with a gaited horse
Exercises to break a pace canter or four-beat canter
Below is a cantering exercise over two ground rails in an L-shape. I begin by letting my horse walk over the rails before we cantered over them.
This is a super fun exercise for the rider and horse.
In addition to improving the quality of canter, you’ll also learn:
Balance of the horse
Rider balance on the horse
The horse’s rhythm
Keeping the horse forward yet relaxed
Looking ahead to plan the arc of a turn and line to a rail
Getting a feel for how many canter strides to a rail
The L-shape can also be used to school flying changes over the rail by alternating the direction over each pole.
Exercises to improve canter quality
Gymnastic jumping and ground rails
Showing stadium jumping over rails
While I will never become serious about show jumping my naturally gaited horses, I enjoy schooling them over ground rails and small fences for gymnastic purposes. It gives them variety in their training. I’ve noticed that when we ride over ground poles and small fences, it creates more lift to their canter and brings out a truer three-beat canter.
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